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 1 
 on: October 16, 2017, 05:41:33 PM 
Started by legeros - Last post by JoeO
For all of your Code 3 models do this. Take them out of the package/dome. Break off some parts, and partially disassemble them. Then throw them in to a big box. Photograph them, and then put them on the 96 or so Facebook pages that everyone that used to be here now reside on. Claim them as the "holy grail" to kit bashing. You should not have any trouble selling them for much more than they are worth.

Rich there's only 92 of them Smiley, however I do have to agree with you the parts trucks seem to sell at a higher cost than originals, hell you can even mix in a few Americom's and double down.

Mike,
My opinion in RED

Thus my first approach of:

 - Use social media to find those I know, who might want
 - Require local pick-up, so they visit, and inspect, and we box together.
 - Negotiate fair price.

I did this with a retailer it worked well a few years back he is out of business now, it was a great approach for me


What I have *not* yet embraced are...

 - Selling individual or small lots on seller forums, boards, or eBay A real pain in the rear, in the long run shipping will be costly
 - Selling larger lots, to buyers where found. Some things to think about, people with disposable incomes may already have what they want; sure you could fill a few spots in. The newer collectors who may have never seen some Franklin Mints, or Code 3's when they first came out will want them, however they don't have disposable income, thus the reason for 92 FB pages of people trying to sell or buy things cheap. Of course kit bashers will pay much less for anything. 
 - Looking into auction houses Yep seen a lot of these on EBAY again as the older collectors are dying or moving on ebay auction houses are raking in a few bucks.
 - Looking into museum(s) donations. They really don't want to deal in reselling either and unless they have open display cases may not want them even if free.

I wish you the best of luck, let us know how it goes, I am sure a number of people will be getting to the point of moving on from the hobby.

 2 
 on: October 16, 2017, 05:04:48 PM 
Started by JoeO - Last post by JoeO
Nice work. How are you removing the factory markings? I am not well versed in removing markings from resin models. I am assuming they are not tempo prints as that process could be damaging to comparatively fragile resin. I would be reluctant to try nail polish remover on painted resin. I have done several die casts of "later issue" that had the paint literally fall off using the old NPR method. Since the "shops" here have been silenced, I have been out of the bashing loop.

Jim
Pages 8 and 9 have some of the bashes from my fire replicas in this tread http://www.modelfiretrucks.net/smf/index.php/topic,19739.105.html

 3 
 on: October 16, 2017, 04:59:10 PM 
Started by JoeO - Last post by JoeO
Jim,
I am finding some of the trucks have waterside decals on them. Both the Milwaukee Engine and Rescue are water slide decals. I have not tried nail polish remover yet, I have been  removing the decals from the front and side using a toothpick (well lots of toothpicks). These trucks had a two part decal the gold on top of a blueish green so it was more work.  The roof decal did not want to come off so I covered the numbers with Silver Decal Trim Film, also I figured I would add a scope light. The numbers on the hose bed also did not want to come off without removing the paint so I just paired over them. To date the Sutphen's, Chicago engines and the Demo Seagraves; engine and red tower have been easiest. Again not all trucks have waterside decals, on some they are painted and a wrap type decal is put on over the paint. In fact the best one to play with is the Sutphen Demo engine 2 door logos and word Sutphen above the grill.

Hopefully you will open the shops again soon.

JoeO

 4 
 on: October 16, 2017, 04:33:45 PM 
Started by legeros - Last post by Billd
Actually Mike, it was your collection you posted on your site that got me started. I had a Corgi, open cab, Seagrave ladder that was a retirement gift that peaked my interest. I started my searching different sites, and came across your site. Game on. I would be interested in what you have to sell. there are a few models I am looking for.

 5 
 on: October 16, 2017, 02:23:20 PM 
Started by legeros - Last post by CCFR-45
Selling is hard. I've got 10 years or so worth of collecting and I've noticed my collection grow and change over the years.

I think the hard thing will be to find someone local that shares your interest in the models to sell to.

If you ever decided to sell on the forum, I'd be interested in Diamond Plates and models of the like.

 6 
 on: October 16, 2017, 10:18:36 AM 
Started by legeros - Last post by RichInQuarters
For all of your Code 3 models do this. Take them out of the package/dome. Break off some parts, and partially disassemble them. Then throw them in to a big box. Photograph them, and then put them on the 96 or so Facebook pages that everyone that used to be here now reside on. Claim them as the "holy grail" to kit bashing. You should not have any trouble selling them for much more than they are worth.

 7 
 on: October 16, 2017, 09:14:58 AM 
Started by legeros - Last post by gafireman
Mike...As previously posted, I have been thinning my collection for the last 5 years or so.  I sold many pieces at one of the SPAAMFAA winter meets and also at the big spring swap meet in Jackson, Mich.  Disposed of some to fellow collectors here in the Atlanta area.  Finally, sold off many hundreds of Ho Scale fire pieces from Europe and other non-USA types to a local dealer with a collectibles store.  I have only purchased 2 pieces this year, a Chicago Autocar squad and a Hallmark fire ornament.  My next downsizing will be when we move out of this house into some type of retirement community, guessing about ten years.

 8 
 on: October 15, 2017, 11:47:33 PM 
Started by JoeO - Last post by Lieutenant146
Nice work. How are you removing the factory markings? I am not well versed in removing markings from resin models. I am assuming they are not tempo prints as that process could be damaging to comparatively fragile resin. I would be reluctant to try nail polish remover on painted resin. I have done several die casts of "later issue" that had the paint literally fall off using the old NPR method. Since the "shops" here have been silenced, I have been out of the bashing loop.

 9 
 on: October 15, 2017, 08:36:00 PM 
Started by JoeO - Last post by JoeO
I used InQuarters decals FD-1 the generic sheet is basically town and apparatus names. Combining Green and Field I am able to create the city name Greenfield. I was going to build a mate for my Columbia Rescue (AKA Milwaukee Rescue) however I changed my mind at the last minute. Once you have a blank truck you can get very creative with the decals. The light scope was from a Columbus Code 3, size wise it worked well. The tricky part was the decal on the hose bed cover, like the roof it did not want to come off, so I removed the cover and repainted it banner red, I was amazed at how close the color was.

The truck does not have to be removed from the base, intact it makes it easier since I donít want to leave finger prints on the truck.

 10 
 on: October 15, 2017, 04:06:08 PM 
Started by Mill_Fire512 - Last post by Sirentoys
Trav,

Yes there are some out there.  It does depend on how close in scale and accuracy you are looking for. 

New Ray has some 1/60 scale helicopters that would work.  The Sikorsky "Hawk" series are available.  I would lean towards the Blackhawk and in kit form.

There are some EC135 and MB BK117 models from Europe that are 1/64 scale or there about.  They actually are pretty good.  Look under the Teamsters or Halsalls brands.  Many of the air ambulances in the UK sell them as well as promos.  Sometimes cheaper.  Previously they couldbe found under the Richmond brand.

Majorette makes an Augusta 119.  Look for an old beater.

Code 3 did the Bell 412 and Ertl did the Huey which is the same base model

If you branch out to 1/72 scale, there are endless models available.

Jeff


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